Jennifer

Recovering attorney and emigree from 7th Avenue, I now combine my technical and creative passions to design knitwear. My design viewpoint is all about making simple, attractive garments and accessories, using a bit of interesting construction or an intriguing detail.

Sleeve in a Day

WIPs 1 Response »

Mar 302012

Deadlines really motivate me; I suspect I might achieve close to zero if I didn’t utilize them. The current challenge is to finish my second contiguous cardigan by saturday midnight. It’s worsted, yes – but still a whole garment.

I think there’s a good chance; I had to rip the first sleeve because it was too small, and I updated the sizing while knitting the second. Happily, sleeve in a day was achieved.

Next challenge is the front edging; last night I ripped the 2″ I had because I decided some short-rowing would be just the thing. So less than 48 hours for around 25 long 200+ stitch rows. I hope it comes out well.

Finally, Contiguous

WIPs 1 Response »

Mar 272012

My first cardi using the Contiguous method is finished, and I love some things about it, while I need to revise a few others.

I love: 1) the single, gently-ruffled cuff and front edge – just swishy enough; 2) the length – longish but not dragging, and because it’s open front, the fronts dip and drape nicely; 3) the yarn – Rowan RYC Cashsoft 4-ply – with merino/microfiber and cashmere, knit at a loose gauge; and 4) the way Contiguous lets you make a more refined dressmaker look, with the sleeve fit and easy construction of a raglan.

But there’s the thing; my fit in the upper body area needs some tweaking, since this sweater method grows a little bit differently than a raglan or a set-in sleeve. The shoulder is quite sloped due to the rapid increases, and the back neck is high. A very square-shouldered person might find a problem with that slope, but I think that making a point to knit the shoulder increases loosely, and block diligently, resulted in a good fit for me. The back neck issue is one I’m now implementing short rows to minimize; however, this style definitely doesn’t lend itself to a low back neckline. Funnelneck, turtleneck, higher collar – those are good.

I also found that with Contiguous, it’s easy to make the sleeve cap too full; a great thing for puff sleeves, but not quite what I was going for. My front cross chest is also too generous, and because the front grows outward to the sleeve, it’s possible to end up with fullness around the sleeve/body intersection, when one would typically like that more toward the center. To me, that means being hyper aware not to oversize the sleeve and upper body.

I also did run out of yarn, although just barely; I needed to borrow something close from stash to finish the last 1/3 of the bind off. Barely noticeable, I think. Especially since the BO turns to the inside, and this is near the bottom edge. Anyway, I need to remath the top and knit another one, maybe in slightly heavier weight yarn, but at the same gauge.

All in all, my takeaway is that the Contiguous method is another great alternative for seamless sweater construction. You can check out SusieM’s Contiguous Method on Ravelry.

I already have another worsted weight Contiguous cardi WIP, and plans for a pullover.

I selected this post to be featured on my blog page at Knitting Blogs.

Contiguous crisis?

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Mar 092012

My contiguous sweater is moving right along, unfortunately to the point where it appears highly likely I will run short on yarn. I’ve already reduced the front ruffle to a single layer, mostly because two layers was bulky, and one will match the one sleeve cuff ruffle.

As you can see, the amount of yarn remaining is small (and frogged from the swatch), and meant to make 3-4 more 600-ish stitch rows. Not looking hopeful.

The cuff ruffle really came out nicely, so I’m committed to duplicating that on the front edge. Off to stalk other people’s Ravelry stash for RYC Cashsoft 4-ply in Weather.

Rhadamanthys

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Mar 022012

Rhadamanthys was the wise mythological Greek king who judged the dead and ruled the Fortunate Isles, where those heroes who had thrice been received into the Elysian Fields resided. Celebrate three blessings with this easy, sideways-knit sweater; it is knit in one piece with no seaming, requires no finishing, and is worked all in garter stitch. Three turning points in the short row shaping delineate body, yoke and collar, creating a shapely fit around the shoulders and upper torso. The garter stitch and extended front panels make it suitable for many shapes and sizes, and the fit may easily be further customized in length or circumference.

Construction: Rhadamanthys is cast on at the left front edge, and worked sideways around the body to the right front. Except for the full-row front panels, it is knit entirely in short rows using the wrap & turn method; there is no need to pick up the wraps and knit them together with the wrapped stitch when you encounter them on the following row, as the wraps will disappear into the texture of the garter stitch fabric.

Techniques & Skills Used: knit, short rows; this pattern includes a link to my short row tutorials.

Size: 27 (29.5, 31.75, 34.25, 36.5, 39, 41.5, 43.75, 46.25, 48.5, 51)” bust, with fronts overlapped. This boxy cardigan has shaping only at the yoke; for a good fit, choose a finished size based on upper bust measurement, or with no ease/some negative ease at the bust; sample shown in third size, worn with 3” negative ease.

Yarn: Madelinetosh Tosh Merino Light (100% merino wool; 420 yards/ 384m/100g), shown in Composition Book Grey; 2 (2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4) skeins, or 750 (800, 900, 975, 1075, 1150, 1250, 1325, 1450, 1550, 1625) yards of fingering weight yarn.

Other Materials: US 6 (4mm) 32” circular needle; Stitch markers (2, optional); Stitch holder; Yarn needle.

Gauge: 20 st and 40 rows/4” in garter stitch, after gentle blocking.

See it on Ravelry or on Payhip, to read more or to purchase the pattern.

Laura

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Feb 242012

A close fitting cowl with alternating cables, Laura is worked seamlessly in ribbing from bottom edge to top. The clean, sculptural lines of the ribbed cables complement every style, and careful finishing makes the cowl completely reversible.

Techniques & Skills Used: cable CO, knit/purl, cables, knitting in the round; the cable is both written and charted.

Size: 18” circumference and 8” height.

Yarn: Malabrigo Yarn Merino Worsted (100% merino wool, 210 yards/100g); 1 skein, shown in Uva. The sample as written used 130 yards.

Other Materials: US 9 (5.5mm) 16” circular needle, or size to match gauge; Cable needle; Stitch markers (8, one different color); Yarn needle.

Gauge: 21 st and 28 rows/4” in unstretched K1P1 Rib, after blocking.

See it on Ravelry or on Payhip, to read more or purchase the pattern.

Laura Mitts

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Feb 242012

Fingerless handwarmers with mirrored ribbed cables, the Laura Mitts are worked from cuff to tip with a gusset thumb. The clean, sculptural lines of the ribbed cables offer a classic complement to every outfit.

Techniques & Skills Used: cable CO, knit/purl, increasing/decreasing, cables, knitting in the round; this pattern contains written instructions only.

Size: S/M (M/L), to fit 8 (9)” palm circumference.

Yarn: Malabrigo Yarn Merino Worsted (100% merino wool, 210 yards/100g); 1 skein, shown in Paris Night. The size M/L sample used 95 yards.

Other Materials: US 8 (5mm) 32” circular needle or dpns, or size to match gauge; Cable needle; Stitch markers (4, one different color); Yarn needle; Scrap yarn for thumb holder.

Gauge: 20 st and 30 rows/4” in stockinette st, after blocking.

See it on Ravelry or on Payhip, to read more or purchase the pattern.

Azul

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Feb 242012

A close fitting, reversible ribbed hat, Azul has alternating cables that decrease in width until they disappear at the crown. The clean, sculptural lines of the ribbed cables and the beanie fit make Azul a perfect hat for everyday.

Techniques & Skills Used: cable CO, knit/purl, decreasing, cables, knitting in the round; this pattern contains written instructions only.

Size: 18” brim circumference and 8” crown, unstretched.

Yarn: Malabrigo Yarn Merino Worsted (100% merino wool, 210 yards/100g); 1 skein, shown in Azul Bolita. The sample as written used 125 yards.

Other Materials: US 9 (5.5mm) 16” circular needle or dpns, or size to match gauge; Cable needle; Stitch markers (8, one different color); Yarn needle.

Gauge: 21 st and 28 rows/4” in unstretched K1P1 Rib.

See it on Ravelry or on Payhip, to read more or purchase the pattern.

Honey WIP

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Feb 152012

I’ve been a bit obsessed with the honeycomb brioche stitch pattern lately. It’s great for variegateds, helping to break up weird pooling and striping, and it makes a thick, fluffy fabric. I like it best in an accessory, or as an accent – as on the shoulder detail of my new sideways cardigan Blue Honey. The picture above shows lovely but challenging Malabrigo Rios in Azules, as stockinette, garter, and the honeycomb pattern.

When I say challenging, I mean the variegated nature of the color, particularly for garments. When Rios was first released, for some reason I bought a sweater quantity in this color. Why? I have no idea. It’s beautiful, and I love blue, but I dont make multi-colored sweaters, or wear them. Anyway, I finally decide this would be the right yarn for this sideways idea I’ve had for a while, and it’s really working out. The Rios is springy and lovely, and the little bit of patterning is just enough. Incarnation #1 is finished but the thing is still a WIP, because I strayed from my initial vision and added buttons, which are less than successful. I need to take them off and rip back to the buttonholes to redo the front band. You KNOW I’m not motivated when I choose to work on the grading before that.

It will be ready for testing soon, though, so maybe I ought to attempt making the redo my FO for friday.

Sleeves, Contiguously

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Feb 072012

The Contiguous cardigan continues, although beset by various little problems. Of course it’s been knit flat, back and forth to the underarm and for the body. And of course I KNOW that my flat gauge is typically larger than my gauge in the round.. Well this sweater proved to be typical; after knitting what should have been almost to the cuff on the first sleeve, with my carefully calculated rate of decrease, I tried it on and found that it was about 3″ too short. No good fix available, except to rip and redo.

I decided first to do the other sleeve, using a larger needle and consciously looser tension – no pulling tight in a stranglehold around the Magic Loop! No excessive worrying about ladders! It came out much better, and true to desired gauge; see the difference:

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I was fairly immobilized on the couch with three separate balls of yarn attached, but happily managed to eliminate one by finishing the left cuff. It’s going to need a steam to stop the rolling, but I think the fullness is good.

It matches the couch! So now I’ve ripped the right and am about halfway re-done; the next issue is that I will certainly not have enough yarn. There looks to be some possible destash on Ravelry, so once the second sleeve is finished, I’ll try to calculate what’s needed and procure some.

Knitting: always a challenge.

River Union Cardi

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Feb 012012

Wide sleeves and a cropped silhouette bring stylish attitude to the River Union Cardi. Extended raglan lines and volume sleeves create a blouson shape, while deep ribbing defines the waist. The full sleeves are balanced by their three-quarter length and deep ribbed cuffs, which match the figure-flattering waist ribbing at the hem. Knit seamlessly from the top down, it’s a fast knit with a fresh feel.

Construction: River Union is worked seamlessly from the top down in one piece with raglan shaping, in stockinette stitch with a deep, ribbed hem and cuffs. Stitches are picked up for the ribbed collar and buttonband, which finish the cardi with no seaming required. Instructions for working the simple, neat buttonholes are included in the photo tutorial with this pattern, and also appear in my video tutorial.

Techniques & Skills Used: provisional CO, twisted purlwise CO, raglan construction, knit/purl, increasing, picking up stitches; pattern instructions include a photo tutorial for the buttonholes.

Size: 32.5 (35, 37.5, 40.5, 43.5, 47.5, 50.5)” bust; sample shown in third size worn with 2.5” positive ease.

Yarn: Berocco Pure Merino (100% extra fine merino; 92 yards/84m/50g), shown in #8568 Teal; 8 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13) skeins, or approximately 650 (700, 775, 850, 950, 1075, 1175) yards of aran weight wool yarn. This yarn has been discontinued; see Designer’s Notes for suggested substitutions.

Other Materials: US 8 (5mm) 32” circular needle; US 6 (4mm) 32” circular needle for picking up stitches; Stitch markers (10); Stitch holders (2); Scrap yarn; Yarn needle; 3/4” buttons, 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 6, 7); Matching sewing thread and needle.

Gauge: 16 st and 24 rows/4” in stockinette stitch with larger needle, after blocking.

See it on Ravelry or on Payhip, to read more or purchase the pattern.

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