Jennifer

Recovering attorney and emigree from 7th Avenue, I now combine my technical and creative passions to design knitwear. My design viewpoint is all about making simple, attractive garments and accessories, using a bit of interesting construction or an intriguing detail.

Tutorial: Grafting Garter Stitch

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Nov 182014

Grafting Garter Tutorial | The Knitting Vortex

In addition to my Grafting Stockinette Stitch tutorial, I thought it would be helpful to demonstrate grafting in garter stitch; the live stitches of two pieces of garter fabric can be joined seamlessly and invisibly just as easily. You’ll need the live stitches divided equally on on two separate needles, a yarn needle, and a length of yarn at least 2 times the length of the finished seam – either a separate piece of yarn, or even better, the yarn tail from the last row.

Hold the needles parallel, with WS (in this case, the private side of the work) facing together. Make sure both have the same number of stitches, and that there are purl bumps snug up against the front needle, and knit stitches against the back needle, as viewed from the outer, public sides.

Grafting Garter prep | The Knitting Vortex

Setup 1 – insert yarn needle into the first stitch on the front needle purlwise, leaving the stitch on the needle:

Grafting Garter setup1 | The Knitting Vortex

Setup 2 – insert yarn needle into the first stitch on the back needle purlwise, leaving the stitch on the needle:

Grafting Garter setup2 | The Knitting Vortex

The two setup steps are worked only once. Pull the yarn gently through the stitches, making sure it travels underneath the needle tips, never over them.

1. Insert yarn needle into the first stitch on the front needle knitwise, and slip the stitch off the needle:

Grafting Garter 1 | The Knitting Vortex

2. Insert yarn needle into next stitch on the front needle purlwise, leaving the stitch on the needle:

Grafting Garter 2 | The Knitting Vortex

3. Insert yarn needle into the first stitch on the back needle knitwise, and slip the stitch off the needle:

Grafting Garter 3 | The Knitting Vortex

4. Insert yarn needle into next stitch on the back needle purlwise, leaving the stitch on the needle:

Grafting Garter 4 | The Knitting Vortex

Repeat steps 1-4 until only 1 stitch remains on each front and back needle, then repeat steps 1 and 3. As you work, pull the yarn gently through the stitches, stopping every so often to adjust the graft by pulling on the grafting yarn. A loose tension can be tightened up stitch by stitch at the end, but pulling too tightly will cause the fabric to distort. Graft all the stitches, adjust the tension as needed and then block to enjoy your seamless join.

Grafting Garter finished seam | The Knitting Vortex

Tutorial: Grafting Stockinette Stitch

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Nov 172014

Grafting Stockinette Tutorial | The Knitting Vortex

Grafting, or Kitchener Stitch, is a way to join the live stitches of two pieces of knit fabric so that there’s no visible seam. It can be employed instead of sewing or the 3-needle bind off, in all sorts of helpful situations such as shoulder or underarm seams, or an infinity scarf. You’ll need the live stitches divided equally on on two separate needles, a yarn needle, and a length of yarn at least 2 times the length of the finished seam – either a separate piece of yarn, or even better, the yarn tail from the last row.

Hold the needles parallel, with WS facing together; doublecheck to make sure both have the same number of stitches:

Grafting Stockinette prep | The Knitting Vortex

Setup 1 – insert yarn needle into the first stitch on the front needle purlwise, leaving the stitch on the needle:

Grafting Stockinette setup1 | The Knitting Vortex

Setup 2 – insert yarn needle into the first stitch on the back needle knitwise, leaving the stitch on the needle:

Grafting Stockinette setup2 | The Knitting Vortex

The two setup steps are worked only once. Pull the yarn gently through the stitches, making sure it travels underneath the needle tips, never over them.

1. Insert yarn needle into the first stitch on the front needle knitwise, and slip the stitch off the needle:

Grafting Stockinette 1 | The Knitting Vortex

2. Insert yarn needle into next stitch on the front needle purlwise, leaving the stitch on the needle:

Grafting Stockinette 2 | The Knitting Vortex

3. Insert yarn needle into the first stitch on the back needle purlwise, and slip the stitch off the needle:

Grafting Stockinette 3 | The Knitting Vortex

4. Insert yarn needle into next stitch on the back needle knitwise, leaving the stitch on the needle:

Grafting Stockinette 4 |The Knitting Vortex

Grafting Stockinette finished seam | The Knitting Vortex

If you need to graft garter stitch, it’s even simpler; my Grafting Garter Tutorial takes you through the steps.

Indie Design Gift-A-Long 2014

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Nov 142014

Indie Design Gift-A-Long 2014 | The Knitting Vortex

Back this year and better than ever, the Indie Design Gift-A-Long is a 2 month craft-a-long of holiday gifts made from patterns designed by a fabulous group of independent designers on Ravelry. The event runs from November 13 to the New Year’s Eve party on December 31, with fiber fun, endless chatter and prizes. We kick off with a special 25% sale from Thursday, November 13th at 8:00 pm US EST – Friday, November 21, 2014 at 11:59 pm US EST. Each designer is offering from 4-20 of their patterns handpicked especially for holiday crafting for this promotion; use coupon code giftalong2014 at the Ravelry checkout.

My 20 special sale patterns are bundled on Ravelry for easy perusing, and include favorite shawls both new and old, cold weather accessories, and some woolly sweaters:

You can join the fun with any of the participating designer’s indie patterns, and there are A LOT of them – 293 designers from 21 countries with over 11,500 patterns. that’s enough to keep busy ’til Christmas.

To see my indie patterns, check out my Ravelry designer page, The Knitting Vortex – Designs by Jennifer Dassau. Happy Knitting, Happy Gifting!

Vary

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Nov 032014

vary: to change periodically or in succession; differ or alternate

An asymmetric shawl that combines various patterns, this bias wrap moves from simple garter stripes through slipstitch colorwork and back again. Cast on at the long, narrow end, Vary grows on the bias, only ever using one color at a time in each row. Choose two colors or even more, and make it your own by varying the placement of the different stitch patterns; the simple construction adapts easily to different amounts of yardage and to your artistic vision.

Techniques & Skills Used: knit/purl, increasing/decreasing, slipstitch colorwork; the slipstitch pattern instructions are fully written only.

Size: 105” length and 21” depth, customizable.

Yarn: String Theory Hand Dyed Yarn Selku (50% silk, 50% merino wool; 375 yards/343m/113g), shown in Viola (MC) and Juice (CC); 1 skein MC and 1 skein CC. The sample used about 340 and 370 yards respectively.

Other Materials: US 7 (4.5mm) 32” circular needle or size to match gauge; Yarn needle.

Gauge: 15 st and 30 rows/4” in garter stitch, after blocking. Gauge is not critical for this project, however a different gauge may result in a smaller or larger finished shawl, and different yardage requirements.

See it on Ravelry or on Payhip, to read more or purchase the pattern.

Sneak Peek: Vary

FOs 2 Responses »

Oct 312014

My giant, asymmetrical, two-color shawl Sundry is one of my most popular designs. It’s so over the top, I had no idea what sort of reception it would get once released. But people seem to like it, which is always great. I think it’s the opportunity to mix and match colors, and to customize their placement. A look at some projects on Ravelry shows all sorts of beautiful choices:

Sundry projects on Ravelry | The Knitting Vortex

One of the reasons I love the sample so much is the yarn I used; Selku by String Theory Hand Dyed Yarn. It’s a wool and silk sportweight blend with excellent drape, and the gorgeous colors for which Karen and Tanis are known. I was fortunate to see their lovely yarns in person at out tiny, local sheep and fiber festival at the beginning of September, and inspired to create another design using Selku. I was looking for something to pair with the purpley-blue Viola colorway I had been hoarding, and found a deep raspberry that was perfect.

For fans of Sundry, my new shawl Vary will be out in a few days.

Vary sneak peek again | The Knitting Vortex

Wordless 10.28.2014

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Oct 282014

Wordless 10.28.2014 The Knitting Vortex

Tortue Swing

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Oct 222014

Originally published in knit.wear Fall 2013, this sweater pattern is now available as an individual pdf download from The Knitting Vortex with expanded instructions and slightly tweaked sizing.

This sophisticated pullover is knit side to side as an oversized rectangle with minimal finishing. A comfy and easy silhouette, the ample body proportions are balanced by the slim ribbed sleeves and turtleneck, with the added detail of an asymmetrical faux front opening. The lower fronts are free to swing open, enhancing the relaxed attitude and uncomplicated style of this outerwear layering piece.

Construction: In this sideways sweater, row gauge determines circumference, while stitch gauge determines length; measurements are ample, providing plenty of ease for your desired fit. Tortue is knit sideways in stockinette stitch with a knit-in narrow rib hem. The underlapping left front is cast on first and worked to the edge of the neck opening then placed on hold; the right front and back are cast on and worked to the neck, with the back placed on hold while the overlapping right front is finished. The center back is then worked until joined with the left front and knit to the other sideseam. Overlapped fronts create the closed neckline, with stitches picked up all around and worked seamlessly in K2P2 rib for a tall turtleneck which can be worn scrunched or folded over. Front and back sideseams are sewn below the narrow armscye, with stitches picked up around the armhole and worked seamlessly in K2P2 rib skinny sleeves. Minimal finishing is required, including tacking down the front bands at the upper chest with added decorative buttons.

Techniques & Skills Used: cable CO, alternate cable CO, knit/purl, increasing/decreasing, picking up stitches.

Size: 49 (54.5, 57.5, 59, 61)” bust circumference. This boxy pullover is designed to be oversized by 4 – 20” or beyond, depending on preference; shown in smallest size, worn with about 14” of positive ease.

Yarn: HiKoo by skacel Kenzie (50% New Zealand merino, 25% nylon, 10% angora, 10% alpaca, 5% silk noils; 160 yards/50g), shown in #1009 Oceana; 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) skeins, or approximately 1550 (1750, 1900, 2000, 2100) yards of DK or light worsted weight wool or wool blend yarn.

Other Materials: US 7 (4.5mm) 40” circular needle or size to match gauge; Stitch markers (4); Stitch holder; Yarn needle; 7/8” buttons (3); Matching sewing thread and needle.

Gauge: 17 st and 26 rows/4” in stockinette stitch, 24 st and 26 rows/4” in K2P2 Rib slightly stretched, after blocking.

See it on Ravelry or on Payhip, to read more or purchase the pattern.

Silverado

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Sep 242014

A seamless cardigan with swingy fronts and unusual construction, Silverado is the best kind of simple yet interesting knitting. Texture abounds in the reverse stockinette ground, ribbed sleeves and 3-dimensional wave cables, finished with a simple applied I-cord front and neck edge. The cozy wrap front can be worn open or closed with a pin, and is just the right layer when there’s a chill in the air.

Construction: The back and sleeves of Silverado begin in the topdown raglan style, then as the sleeves are divided from the body, stitches are picked up along the front raglan seamlines for the fronts, which are shaped with increases and cables.

Techniques & Skills Used: raglan construction, knit/purl, increasing/decreasing, longtail CO, backwards loop CO, picking up stitches, cables, applied I-cord (cable CO). Silverado is a fully written pattern, with the cables both written and charted; there is also a video tutorial for the applied I-cord.

Size: 33 (34.5, 36.5, 38, 40, 42.5, 45.5, 48, 50.5)” upper bust, based on twice the back width at bottom of armhole; the shaped fronts of this cardigan make each size very versatile; choose a size based on upper bust measurement. Sample shown in second size with 1” positive ease.

Yarn: Malabrigo Yarn Merino Worsted (100% merino wool; 210 yards/192m/100g), shown in Frost Gray; 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 7) skeins, or approximately 750 (775, 825, 900, 950, 1025, 1150, 1225, 1350) yards of worsted weight yarn.

Other Materials: US 8 (5mm) 32” circular needle or size to match gauge; Stitch markers (6); Stitch holders (2); Cable needle; Yarn needle.

Gauge: 18 st and 24 rows/4” in stockinette stitch, 20 st and 24 rows/4” in slightly stretched P1K1 Rib, after blocking.

See it on Ravelry or on Payhip, to read more or purchase the pattern.

Tutorial: Short Rows using the Shadow Wrap method

Tutorials 2 Responses »

Sep 092014

The final post in my series of tutorials for working Short Rows demonstrates the Shadow Wrap method, promulgated by Socktopus. As in the German and Japanese methods, an extra loop is made from the row below to disguise the turning point; the extra loop in this case is a stitch worked into the stitch below just before turning, creating a twinned stitch at the turning point. Later both loops of the twinned stitch are worked together to close the gap.

The Shadow Wrap method on a knit row:

1. Knit to the turning point, then knit into the stitch below the next stitch on the left needle, creating a twinned stitch.

2. Slip this twinned stitch to the left needle without twisting it.

3. Turn the work, and purl the next row.

The Shadow Wrap method on a purl row:

1. Purl to the turning point, then slip the next stitch purlwise to the right needle.

2. Insert the left needle tip into the stitch below the slipped stitch on the right needle, lifting the front leg; purl into this stitch with the right needle, creating a twinned stitch.

3. Slip this twinned stitch to the left needle without twisting it.

4. Turn the work and knit the next row.

To work the twin stitch on a knit row:

1. Knit to the twinned stitch, which is easy to see, and knit both loops together as one.

To work the twinned stitch on a purl row:

1. Purl to the twinned stitch, which again is easy to see, and purl both loops together as one.

I like that the twinning is done prior to turning the work, and that the twinned stitch is very obvious to see later on when it’s time to close the gap. The actions are pretty basic, although making the twin on the purl side takes a bit of manipulation. For me, the result was a bit messier than the Japanese and German methods, but the procedure overall was simpler; as ever, the choice of methods will depend on the yarn and gauge, and where the short rows are being used. Next up will be a recap post evaluating the results of all five methods I’ve presented.

For the other tutorials in the Short Rows series, see:

Short Rows using the wrap & turn method

Short Rows using the yarnover method

Short Rows using the German method

Short Rows using the Japanese method

Garden State Sheep & Fiber

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Sep 072014

This weekend was New Jersey’s 20th annual fiber fest, and although it’s small, I like to think of it as powerful. There are four barns full of animals, fleece, spinning, shows and vendors – just enough for a good half day, with the added bonus of being local for me.

Almost everything is under cover, which worked out nicely this year in the feels-like 100 degree heat, followed in the afternoon by drenching thunderstorms. I left before the actual rains came, but felt like I had been soaked anyway by that time from the humidity.

The shade helped them, but the animals were hot too; the sheep that were getting sheared seemed pleased to lose the extra insulation. This guy was a blue ribbon winner, and he looked totally over it.

Sheepbreeders Festival 2014 ram | The Knitting Vortex'

The angora bunnies were alert, but keeping motion to a minimum.

Sheepbreeders Festival 2014 angora rabbit | The Knitting Vortex

There were kids leading sheep around the show ring, the local spinners’ guild doing their thing, lots of fibery crafts (SO many felted things!) and a super array of booths from indie dyers. I even ran into some friends unexpectedly, so ended up re-touring the entire festival with them. The heat did sap my energy eventually, but not before I enhanced my stash; it turned out to be a romantic, plummy, red sort of day.

Sheepbreeders Festival 2014 yarn | The Knitting Vortex

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