Jennifer

Recovering attorney and emigree from 7th Avenue, I now combine my technical and creative passions to design knitwear. My design viewpoint is all about making simple, attractive garments and accessories, using a bit of interesting construction or an intriguing detail.

Honeydana

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Nov 112024
 

Deeply textured honeycomb cables decorate this seamless double layer bandana cowl. Begun flat and then joined in the round, the shawl structure shows off the beautiful stitch pattern, with all the convenience of an easy to wear cowl.

Construction: Honeydana is knit seamlessly from a topdown provisional CO and begins like a triangle shawl, worked with elegant tubular edges. Once a comfortable neckline circumference is reached, stitches are joined in the round and worked like a cowl, with a honeycomb cable pattern on the body and continued shaping to create the bandana front. The lower edge is finished with a sculptural ruffle. Pull the neckpiece over your head, tuck in the top, and enjoy your comfortable, stay-in-place bandana cowl.

Techniques & Skills Used: provisional CO, cable CO, knit/purl, increasing, cables, working in the round. This pattern contains fully written instructions, with a chart also provided for the cable repeat. 

Size: 32” circumference at bottom edge and 16” tall. 

Yarn: Green Mountain Spinnery Mewesic (100% fine American wool; 180 yards/165m/58g), sample shown in Purple Rain 8951; 2 skeins, or approximately 360 yards of DK weight wool yarn. Choose a rustic or sturdy yarn to enhance the structure of the cowl. 

Other Materials: US 6 (4mm) 24” and 32” circular needle or size to match gauge; Stitch markers (4); Cable needle; Yarn needle. 

Gauge: 26 st and 30 rounds/4” in honeycomb stitch pattern, and 22 st and 30 rows/4” in stockinette stitch, after blocking. Gauge is not critical for this project, however a different gauge may result in a smaller or larger finished scarf, and different yardage requirements.

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Ink Scarf

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Nov 102024
 

Worked in the round from one end to the other, Ink Scarf uses the helix knitting technique to create easy jogless one-row stripes on a long tubular scarf. Completely reversible thanks to invisible color changes, one side displays stockinette stitch and the other reverse stockinette, each with a slipped stitch decorative linear detail. Pair two contrasting tonal yarns as in the red sample, or introduce an array of leftovers as shown in the blue. Versatile fingering weight yarn makes a lightweight scarf that can be knit to any length.

Construction: the helix knitting technique avoids the jog in color between stripe rounds, as well as removes the ridge where yarns are carried on the reverse of the work, making the scarf delightfully reversible. Helix knitting is used in the striped sections of the Ink scarf, with 8 stationary markers to indicate the position of the vertical slipped stitch columns. No EOR marker is needed, as the “round” is constantly spiraling around the work. The solid sections utilize normal circular knitting, where an EOR marker is used and then removed. For my video tutorial of the invisible provisional CO, and for helix stripe knitting, see www.jenniferdassau.com/support/tutorials/

Worked in the round from one end to the other, the Ink Scarf is cast on with the first color using the folded hem method for a non-curling stockinette edge, then continued with the addition of one or more colors for the helix stripes sections, which are easy to work with just one color per round.

Techniques & Skills Used: provisional CO, knit/purl, slipped stitches, working in the round, turned hems. 

Size: 52” length and 9.5” width, customizable. 

Yarn: use fingering weight yarn in at least two colors in any amount and combination of full skeins, mini skeins, or leftovers. Estimate about 750- 900 yards for length similar to the scarves shown.

Yarn (blue Ink sample): Adirondack Yarns Spirited Fibers Fingering (80% superwash merino wool, 20% nylon; 400 yards/366m/100g), 1 skein Silver (A), Baah Yarns La Jolla (100% merino wool; 400 yards/366m/115g), 1 skein Night Sky (B), Miss Babs Yummy 2-Ply (100% superwash merino wool; 400 yards/366m/110g), 1 skein Tempo (C) and 1 skein Cordovan (D). The blue sample used 460 (A), 252 (B), 156 (C), and 64 (D) yards.

Yarn (red Ink sample): Adirondack Yarns Spirited Fibers Fingering (80% superwash merino wool, 20% nylon; 400 yards/366m/100g), 1 skein Oxblood Lily (A), and Hedgehog Fibres Sock Yarn (90% superwash merino wool, 10% nylon; 382 yards/350m/100g), 1 skein Roc City (B). The red sample used 400 (A) and 336 (B) yards.

Other Materials: US 5 (3.75mm) 16” circular needle, or size to match gauge; US 4 (3.5mm) 16” circular needle and scrap yarn for CO/hems; Stitch markers (4 color A and 4 color B, 1 for EOR); Yarn needle. 

Gauge: 22 st and 32 rounds/4” in stockinette stitch after blocking. Gauge is not critical for this project, however a different gauge may result in a smaller or larger finished scarf, and different yardage requirements. 

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Ink Hat

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Nov 102024
 

Worked in the round from the brim to the top, Ink Hat uses the helix knitting technique to create easy jogless one-row stripes. Completely reversible thanks to invisible color changes, one side displays stockinette stitch and the other reverse stockinette, each with a slipped stitch decorative linear detail. Pair two contrasting tonal yarns, or match a neutral main color with a self-striping contrast or an array of leftovers. Versatile fingering weight yarn makes a comfortably chic lightweight hat.

Construction: the helix knitting technique avoids the jog in color between stripe rounds, as well as removes the ridge where yarns are carried on the reverse of the work, making the hat delightfully reversible. The Ink Hat offers two brim variations; cast on using the tubular method with color A for a smooth, infinity edge and continue 1” in double knitting for a stockinette appearance, or transition to comfortable K1P1 ribbing. Add color B for the helix stripes section, worked with just one color every round. For my video tutorial of helix stripe knitting & the special decreases used in this pattern, as well as for the tubular CO, see www.jenniferdassau.com/support/tutorials/

Techniques & Skills Used: tubular CO, knit/purl, slipped stitches, decreasing, working in the round. 

Size: S (M, L); about 17.5 (19, 20.25)” brim circumference and 8.5 (10, 11)” height, measured flat and unstretched; samples shown in sizes S (blue Ink) and M (black Ink). 

Yarn: use fingering weight yarn in two colors from any combination of full skeins, mini skeins, or leftovers, about 80-120 (A) and 70-90 (B) yards total

Yarn (black Ink sample): Miss Babs Yummy 2-Ply (100% superwash merino wool; 400 yards/365m/110g), 1 skein Pewter (A), and Miss Babs Yummy 2-Ply Toes (100% superwash merino wool; 133 yards/122m/37g), 1 mini skein Coffee Bean (B). The black sample used 105 (A) and 80 (B) yards.

Yarn (blue Ink sample): Woolfolk Sno (100% merino wool; 223 yards/204m/50g), 1 skein 01+02 off white (A), and Miss Babs Yummy 2-Ply (100% superwash merino wool, 400 yards/365m/110g), 1 skein Stonewashed (B). The blue sample used 75 (A) and 70 (B) yards.

Yarn (orange Ink sample): Miss Babs Keira (100% merino wool; 560 yards/512m/225g), 1 skein Carnelian (A), and Hedgehog Fibres Sock (90% merino wool, 10% nylon; 437 yards/400m/100g), 1 skein Roc City (B). The orange sample used 100 (A) and 80 (B) yards.

Other Materials: US 5 (3.75mm) 16” circular needle, or size to match gauge; US 4 (3.5mm) 16” circular needle and scrap yarn for tubular CO; Stitch markers (4 color A and 4 color B); Yarn needle. 

Gauge: 22 st and 32 rounds/4” in stockinette stitch after blocking. 

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Rhombic Flow

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Oct 032024
 

A current of rhombus shapes flows along the length of this stole, expanding and contracting within a bed of comforting garter stitch. Worked in ethereal lace weight yarn, this scarf can be made as long as your yardage allows, while maintaining a featherlight quality that spans the seasons. 

Construction: Rhombic Flow begins at one end and is worked to the other, with geometrically expanding and contracting interlocking lace diamonds and a wide garter border.

Techniques & Skills Used: longtail CO, knit/purl, increasing/decreasing, easy lace; this pattern is both fully written and charted. 

Size: 108” length and 13” width, customizable. 

Yarn: Forbidden Fiber Company Whisper (70% alpaca, 20% silk, 10% cashmere; 875 yards/800m/100g); 1 skein, or 870 yards of luxury wool blend lace weight yarn. Any amount of yarn may be used. The sample was made with discontinued Whisper shown in color Winter Dusk, and as written used approximately 823 yards. 

Other Materials: US 5 (3.75mm) 24” circular needle, or size to match gauge; Markers (3, or more if marking repeats); Yarn needle. 

Gauge: 17 st and 34 rows/4” in garter stitch, after blocking. Gauge is not critical for this project, however a different gauge may result in a smaller or larger finished scarf, and different yardage requirements. 

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Amalee

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Feb 282024
 

A tidy and feminine seamless cardigan, Amalee adds a touch of whimsy with bell sleeve cuffs and a romantic peplum. Worked from the top down using the seamless, simultaneous set-in sleeves method, the silhouette is slightly relaxed with gentle A-line shaping, a flattering hi-hip length, and elegant tubular rib finish. 

Construction: Amalee uses the seamless, simultaneous set-in sleeve method, which allows you to work the back, front and sleeves of a sweater all at one time from the top down, while creating a tailored, set-in sleeve fit. Stitches are cast on for the back, and the back shoulders are shaped with a few short rows to create the shoulder slope; stitches are then picked up for each front shoulder, and shaped with identical short rows. The back and fronts are united, while at the same time stitches are picked up at the shoulder edges for the sleeve caps, and sleeve cap shaping begins. Body and sleeves are worked at the same time, with a deep V neckline, and tailored armhole shaping. When the armhole depth is reached, sleeves are put on hold, while the body is worked straight to the natural waist, then stitches are increased to create the flowing peplum. The hem is finished with an elegant tubular bind off, which will be used again at the cuffs and front edges. Sleeves are then resumed and worked with shaping to the the forearm, then increased to create gentle bell cuffs. The narrow neck & front edging buttonband are worked in rib with easy and discreet tiny yarnover buttonholes, and finished with the tubular bind off.

Techniques & Skills Used: cable CO, backwards loop CO, knit/purl, short rows, picking up stitches, increasing/decreasing, working in the round, simultaneous shaping, tubular BO, grafting. Pattern instructions are fully written, with links to my tutorials.

Size: 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64)” bust; sample shown in fourth size worn with 2” positive ease; for a fitted look in the upper torso with a relaxed A-line shape below as in the sample, choose a size 1-2” larger than your actual bust measurement.

Yarn: Anzula Squishy (80% merino wool, 10% cashmere, 10% nylon; 385 yards/352m/114g), shown in Mercury; 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) skeins, or approximately 1050 (1125, 1200, 1250, 1375, 1450, 1550, 1675, 1800, 1950, 2075, 2200, 2325) yards of wool or MCN blend fingering weight yarn; consider some cashmere content to provide a luxurious feel.

Other Materials: US 5 (3.75mm) 32-60” circular needle or size to match gauge for body, and US 5 dpns if not using magic loop for sleeves; Spare US 5 60” circular needle for tubular BO; Stitch markers (4); Removable stitch markers (2); Stitch holders (2); Yarn needle; Blunt sewing needle; ½” buttons 9 (10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 11, 11, 11).

Gauge: 21 st and 30 rows/4” in stockinette stitch, after blocking.

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Allotrope Cubes

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Oct 282023
 

Diamond is the compact and dense allotrope, or distinct structural element, that forms from carbon at very high pressure. This shawl is a lattice of interlocking cubic shapes in garter stitch and yarnovers, worked from the bottom up in an expanding structure. Wide garter borders on all sides create a simple frame for the strong and striking geometry of the diamond arrangement.

Construction: Allotrope Cubes begins at the bottom center point, and is worked to the long top edge, with geometrically expanding interlocking lace diamonds and a wide garter border.

Techniques & Skills Used: longtail CO, knit/purl, increasing/decreasing, easy lace; this pattern is both fully written and charted. 

Size: S (L); 83 (87)” length and 29 (32)” depth. 

Yarn: Dream In Color Smooshy (85% superwash merino wool, 15% nylon; 420 yards/284m/114g); 2 (3) skeins, or approximately 750 (900) yards of wool blend fingering weight yarn. The size L sample was made with discontinued Dream In Color Stardust Experimentals (98% superwash merino wool, 2% nylon; 450 yards/411m/114g), shown in Persimmon; 2 skeins. 

Other Materials: US 5 (3.75mm) 32” circular needle, or size to match gauge; Markers (3, or more if marking repeats); Yarn needle.

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Honeydip

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Sep 122023
 

Deeply textured honeycomb cables decorate the body and outer sleeves of this topdown seamless sweater. Victorian references style the bell shaped silhouette, with a high neck, slim sleeves, and fluted hem. Compound raglan shaping ensures a good fit for all sizes, while waist shaping further refines the silhouette.

Construction: Honeydip is knit seamlessly from the top down using raglan construction, in a textured honeycomb cable pattern on the front, back, and along the outer sleeves, with smooth stockinette at the body side panels and undersleeves. Compound raglan shaping, in which the rate of body and sleeve increases varies depending upon size, is used to ensure a good fit across the entire size range. Stitches are cast on in the round at the neckline, the front and back neck are shaped with short rows, then the body is worked to the bottom of the armhole. Sleeve stitches are placed on hold while the lower body is worked with gentle shaping to the fluted ribbed hem which flows smoothly from the cables. Sleeves are then continued to the ribbed cuffs; shaping takes place on body and sleeves in the stockinette sections, to avoid interrupting the cable panels. Stitches are picked up for the neckband and worked in ribbing to match the hem and cuffs. 

Techniques & Skills Used: cable CO, backwards loop CO, raglan construction, knit/purl, increasing/decreasing, cables, German short rows, picking up stitches. Pattern instructions are fully written, with charts also provided for cable pattern and increases; a link to my short row tutorials is included. 

Size: 30 (32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64)” bust; sample shown in fifth size, worn with 3” of positive ease. 

Yarn: Green Mountain Spinnery Mewesic (100% fine American wool; 180 yards/165m/58g), shown in Purple Rain 8951; 6 (7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14) skeins, or approximately 1050 (1125, 1175, 1250, 1350, 1425, 1500, 1600, 1700, 1775, 1925, 2050, 2200, 2300) yards of DK weight wool yarn. 

Other Materials: US 6 (4mm) 24” and 32” circular needle or size to match gauge, and US 6 dpns for sleeves and neckband if not using Magic Loop; Stitch markers (8) color A for raglan lines, and (4) color B for sleeve cable panel; Stitch holders (2); Cable needle; Yarn needle. 

Gauge: 26 st and 30 rounds/4” in honeycomb stitch pattern, and 22 st and 30 rounds/4” in stockinette stitch, after blocking.

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Chunnel Vest

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Aug 122023
 

Chunnel Vest features a relaxed modern silhouette worked in textured half fisherman’s rib. European shoulder shaping places the shoulder seams toward the back, eliminating bulk and creating a flattering smooth drape at the front. Fully fashioned shaping emphasizes the neckline, armholes and sideseams above the hem, for visible style lines that contour to your shape. An elegant tubular bind off finishes the ribbing at the hem, armholes and neck.

Construction: Chunnel Vest is cast on at the back neck, then the shoulders are shaped with increases to create an ergonomic fit. Once the shoulder width is reached, the upper back is worked with integrated shaping, to the bottom of the armhole. The back is put on hold while stitches are picked up along the shoulder edge for each front, then worked to the armscye depth, with rounded crew neck shaping. Back and front are united, then the body is worked in the round, with shaping above the ribbed hem to emphasize the fitted bottom finish. The hem is worked in K1P1 rib, finished elegantly with a clean tubular bind off. Armhole and neckline trim begin with picking up stitches, then are worked in K1P1 rib with a tubular bind off.

Techniques & Skills Used: cable CO, backwards loop CO, knit/purl, working into the stitch below, working in the round, working in simple pattern, increasing/decreasing, picking up stitches, tubular BO, grafting. This pattern contains written instructions, with links to my tutorials. 

Size: 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66)” bust; sample shown in third size worn with 3” positive ease. I chose a slightly oversized fit for myself; consult the schematic for bust and other measurements, and choose a size that provides the amount of ease you prefer. 

Yarn: Woolfolk FAR (100% merino wool; 142 yards/130m/50g); shown in No. 20. 4 (4, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 9, 10) skeins, or approximately 500 (575, 650, 750, 825, 900, 1000, 1075, 1175, 1275) yards of worsted weight wool yarn. 

Other Materials: US 7 (4.5mm) 32” circular needle or size to match gauge; US 6 (4mm) dpns or 32” circular needle for armhole and neckline rib; Spare US 7 (4.5mm) and US 6 (4mm) circular needles for tubular BO; Stitch markers (6); Removable stitch markers (2); Stitch holders (2); Yarn needle. 

Gauge: 16 st and 34 rounds/4” “ in fisherman’s rib pattern, after blocking; 16 st and 24 rounds/4” in K1P1 rib.

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Kimberlite Pipes

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May 182023
 

Kimberlite Pipes is a shawl that represents the transformation of carbon into diamonds, working their way up through the earth’s mantle. Cast on at the bottom point, this shawl expands upwards in tiers of interlocking diamonds, beginning fully as lace, transitioning through half garter/ half lace, and finally reaching fully garter shapes. Diagonal rows of yarnovers separate the diamonds throughout, and outline the wide garter borders on all sides. 

Techniques & Skills Used: knit/purl, increasing/decreasing, easy lace; this pattern is both fully written and charted. 

Size: 74” length and 40” depth, customizable. 

Yarn: Birch Hollow Fibers Morrison MCN Sock (80% superwash merino wool, 10% cashmere, 10% nylon; 435 yards/ 398m/100g), shown in Winter Wheat; 2 skeins or 870 yards of wool blend fingering weight yarn. The sample used almost all of the yarn; see Designer’s Notes for suggestions on adjusting for different yardage. 

Other Materials: US 5 (3.75mm) 24” circular needle, or size to match gauge; Markers (3, or more if marking reps); Yarn needle. 

Gauge: 16 st and 32 rows/4” in garter stitch, 16 st and 24 rows/4” in diamond lace pattern, after blocking. Gauge is not critical for this project, however a different gauge may result in a smaller or larger finished shawl, and different yardage requirements. 

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Courser Loop

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Mar 162023
 

Worked in the round with a half-twist, Courser Loop is a moebius infinity cowl that alternates long rounds of slipped stitch, broken rib, and reverse broken rib patterns, and is finished along the outer edge with K1P1 ribbing. The reverse of the stitch patterns each create a unique and beautiful fabric, taking advantage of the moebius structure which magically displays the RS on one half of the length, and the WS on the other, making the cowl attractive on both sides and completely reversible.

Designer’s Notes: This infinity loop is worked in the round outwards from the cast on, which becomes the middle of the loop, until the outside edge is reached and bound off. To adjust the length of your loop, CO more or fewer stitches in multiples of 2; to customize the width, work the various stitch patterns in any combination, for any number of repeats. 

Techniques & Skills Used: moebius CO, knit/purl, slipped stitches, working in the round; instructions for stitch patterns are fully written, and a link to the moebius CO tutorial is provided. 

Size: S (L); 36 (48)” circumference and 8 (11)” tall, customizable to any size. 

Yarn: Malabrigo Yarn Rios (100% superwash merino wool; 210 yards/ 192m/100g), shown in Purple Mystery; 1 (2) skeins, or approximately 210 (420) yards of worsted weight yarn. 

Other Materials: US 8 (5mm) 47 (60)” circular needle or size to match gauge; Stitch marker (1); Yarn needle. 

Gauge: 15 st and 36 rounds/4” in Welted Slipstitch and both Broken Rib stitch patterns, 15 st and 20 rounds in K1P1 Rib, after blocking. Gauge is not critical for this project, however a different gauge may result in a smaller or larger finished loop, and different yardage requirements. 

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